In a surprising move, Carlisle Winery, renowned for its exceptional Zinfandels, announced it would cease operations after the 2024 vintage. Owners Mike and Kendall Officer shared the news with their dedicated wine club members, signaling the end of an era for one of California’s most celebrated producers of old-vine Zinfandel. This decision comes despite the winery's financial success, underscoring the personal and regulatory challenges that have weighed on the owners.

A Decision Long in the Making

Mike Officer, 62, explained that the decision was not made lightly. "Financially, Carlisle is doing wonderfully. It's just the owners of Carlisle are exhausted. Kendall and I and Jay Maddox, our winemaker—we're all in our 60s and we all want to retire before we're 70. Doing business in California and complying with all the idiotic regulations in the states to which we ship have worn us out. We needed an exit strategy."

The Search for a Successor

The Officers explored the possibility of selling the winery but found no suitable buyer. "There was lots of interest, but it's kind of indicative of the state of the industry. There's a reluctance to take on brands unless they can be had for a bargain," said Officer. "We also wanted someone who shared our passion for wine and old vineyards, and also someone who we felt was going to succeed going forward with the brand. Unfortunately, we came up empty on that search."

From Humble Beginnings to Iconic Status

Carlisle Winery's story began modestly in 1987 when Mike Officer started making wine as a hobby in his San Francisco apartment. After moving to Santa Rosa in Sonoma County in 1991, he became a true garagiste, producing his first commercial vintage in 1998 with 650 cases. The winery quickly gained a reputation for quality, with 21 of its Zinfandels earning classic scores of 95 points or higher on Wine Spectator’s 100-point scale, a record unmatched by any other Zinfandel producer. Carlisle's Syrahs also achieved significant acclaim, with five bottlings rating 95 points or above.

The officer’s dedication to preserving historic vineyards led him to co-found the Historic Vineyard Society, a nonprofit organization committed to maintaining California’s old vineyards. Carlisle's best-known wines include those from Papera, Pagani, and Montafi ranches, as well as the Carlisle Vineyard.

The Reluctant Farmer

Despite his success in winemaking, Officer never intended to become a farmer. Growing up on a farm in northern San Diego County, where his father grew tangelos and avocados, Officer initially pursued a career in medicine before switching to computers due to a distaste for blood. Even during college, he maintained a wine cellar in his dorm room, foreshadowing his future career. He balanced his software development job with his burgeoning wine business until 2004 when he finally committed to Carlisle full-time.

A Boutique Operation with a Lasting Impact

Approaching its 27th harvest, Carlisle has remained a small, boutique operation, typically producing around 8,000 cases annually. However, the 2024 harvest will be significantly smaller, yielding approximately 2,700 cases from five vineyards: Mancini, Old Hill, Papa’s Black, Papera, and Carlisle. The future of the Carlisles’ 9.5-acre estate vineyard in the Russian River Valley remains uncertain, with a possibility of limited production continuing for a few more vintages.

Closing on a High Note

The Officers plan to wind down operations over the next two to four years, selling the remaining inventory. "We have no regrets," said Officer. "Unlike an aging professional athlete who doesn't know when it's time to retire, I feel like we're going out on top of our game. When I think about everything that I dreamed of doing in the wine industry and accomplishing, I feel like I've done that. I feel good about it."

Perspective for the On-Premise Trade

Carlisle Winery's closure will significantly impact the on-premise trade. Sommeliers and restaurant owners have long relied on Carlisle’s Zinfandels and Syrahs to elevate their wine lists with distinctive, high-quality offerings. The loss of such a reputable producer means that on-premise professionals will need to seek alternatives to fill the gap. This situation highlights the importance of building strong relationships with other boutique wineries that prioritize quality and tradition.

For those in the on-premise trade, Carlisle's story serves as a reminder of the challenges faced by small producers, from regulatory burdens to succession planning. Supporting boutique wineries and fostering new talent within the industry will be crucial in maintaining a diverse and dynamic wine selection for consumers. As Carlisle winds down, on-premise professionals will need to stay informed about emerging producers who can offer wines of comparable quality and uniqueness.

The closure of Carlisle Winery is not just the end of a single producer but a moment of reflection for the entire industry. It underscores the need for ongoing support of passionate individuals and small operations that contribute to the rich tapestry of the wine world.

(Compiled from press reports including the San Francisco Chronicle and Wine Spectator).

Header Image: Mike and Kendall Officer; source: Carlisle Winery