There is an old Japanese proverb which goes like - Wine is the best broom for troubles & we can’t deny that. Earlier, for many years, Japan had to rely on foreign grapes sources for its wineries to make wine. But according to a survey - since 2000, an undeniable increase has been seen in Japanese wineries to make authentic wines.  

Taking you to one such winery in Katsunuma, Japan, which about 70 miles west of central Tokyo, where the three Aruga brothers are pouring white wines in their timbered tasting room. All these inside a 19th-century merchant’s house. Several white wines are made at their Katsunuma Jyozo Winery - under the label of Aruga Branca. Each one of them bearing the country’s unique grape variety - koshu. 

While one is elegant and sparkling; another one is fresh, bright with a lemon hint. Another one has a succulent and tangy taste & there is one with a smoky and savory taste. Also, there is one which is the barrel-fermented version with round, rich, and smooth flavor.

Aruga Branca is one of the labels involved in a vinous revolution that is expanding Japan’s boundaries in the wine industry globally. Since 2010, koshu has been on the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) list of varieties, which is why it is displayed on the labels in Europe. 

According to Bloomberg, in 2018, the government regulations were enacted to restrict the labeling of Japanese wine to vintages made wholly in the country, from vine to barrel. This was done to ensure quality. The export volume raised from 45,000 liters to 58,000 liters from 2015 to 2017, up almost 30%, according to the National Tax Agency. Ambitious vintners anticipate more demand during the 2020 Summer Olympics.

Although many grape varietals are grown in Japan - wineries in one of the four significant wine regions, Yamanashi - where even Katsunuma is located, are betting on koshu.

 “The grape is ideal for Japan’s humid, rainy climate. It’s thick-skinned and resistant to rot,” says Aruga.

If you are looking to try some koshu wines & know more about it, click here.